Hello Everyone
As well as making things I also love to read. I hate it when I carry my book in my bag and the front cover gets damaged and pages get creased. I have come up with a super easy pattern for a book sleeve. This project is suitable for beginner sewers and also makes an easy project for kids to have a go at.
Find the video on how too make your book sleeve here –
I love seeing your makes so don’t forget to tag me in them on Instagram @Lexie_Loves_Stitching
Happy Sewing!
Hello Everyone and welcome to my No Fuss Fish Pattern!
This easy crochet amigurumi fish works up really easily and you can use your scraps of leftover yarn to make him. If you’re not very confident at following patterns, find my YouTube tutorial here –
To make this little chap you will need –
This pattern is written in UK TERMS, do not turn your work between rounds.
Start with a Magic Circle, if you’re not sure how to do the magic circle, find a video here –
Round 1 – 6 dc into the magic circle, pull your magic circle closed,slip stitch to join to your first dc.
Round 2 – Ch1, *1dc into the first stitch, 2dc into the next* Continue * – * until the end of the round (9 Stitches).
Round 3 -Ch1, *1dc into the first 2 stitches, 2dc into the next* Continue * – * until the end of the round (12 Stitches).
Round 4 -Ch1, *1dc into the first 3 stitches, 2dc into the next* Continue * – * until the end of the round (15 Stitches).
Round 5 -Ch1, *1dc into the first 4 stitches, 2dc into the next* Continue * – * until the end of the round (18 Stitches).
Round 6 -Ch1, *1dc into the first 5 stitches, 2dc into the next* Continue * – * until the end of the round (21 Stitches).
Round 7 -Ch1, *1dc into the first 6 stitches, 2dc into the next* Continue * – * until the end of the round (24 Stitches). Fasten off yarn.
Round 8 – Attach contrasting yarn colour, 24 dc around. Fasten off yarn.
Round 9 – 17 – Attach original yarn colour, *24 dc around, slip stitch into the 1st stitch of the round, chain 1*. Repeat * – * for each round.
Its now time to stuff your fish and attach his safety eyes (see video above for best placement of eyes).
Round 18 – Skip 8 stitches, slip stitch into 9th stitch. Slip Stitch through both sides of your fish to close the gap (see video above if you need help). When you have closed the space fully, chain 4, skip the first chain and dc into the next 3 chain spaces, slip stitch into the next stitch (on the main body of the fish). Fasten off and cut your yarn.
Round 19 – Attach your yarn, dc2tog, dc in the next 2 stitches, dc2tog. Ch1 and turn. 1dc in each stitch around, slip stitch through both sides of your work to close (see video). Fasten off and cut your yarn.
Fins (Make 2) – Start with a magic circle. 1dc into the middle of the circle, 1htc, 1tc, 1htc, 1dc. Fasten off and pull your circle closed.
Tail – With main colour yarn, chain 7. 1dc in each stitch starting from the second chain from the hook. Tie off and cut your yarn. Attach your contrast colour, 1dc2tog, 1dc in the next 2 stitches, 1dc2tog in last 2 stitches, ch1, turn. 1dc in each stitch (4 stitches), ch1, turn, 1dc2tog, 1dc2tog (2 stitches), ch1, turn, 1dc in each to the 2 stitches, fasten off and secure your yarn.
Now sew all your parts together and you have made your fish!
Fill a large jar with gravel and decorate as you wish. Attach some thread to the top of your fish and glue the thread to the inside of the lid. When the glue is dry, pop the lid on and your fish will be ready to swim in his new home!!!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial
Happy Crocheting
Hello Everybody!
Huge apologies that it has been sooooo long since I have published a new pattern! I have been so busy with Uni, work placement and life in general! I have lots of patterns to write up but I thought I would start with this super easy market bag and as July is plastic free month it fits in perfectly! I have also done a youtube tutorial for those that are not as confident at reading patterns so you won’t miss out!
FOR THE BAG YOU WILL NEED –
HANDY TIPS!
Start with a magic ring (or ch4 and join with a slip stitch).
Round 1: 3ch, 11tr into ring. Join to third ch of initial 3ch with a slip stitch, pull the magic ring to close. [12st]
Round 2: 3ch, 1tr into same stitch, 2tr into each stitch, join to third ch of initial 3 ch with a slip stitch. [24st]
Round 3: 3ch, 1tr in same st, 1 tr in next st, *2tr in next stitch, 1 tr in next; rep from * around. [36st]
Round 4: 3ch, 1 tr in same st, 1tr in next 2st, *2tr in next st, 1tr in next 2st; rep from * around. [48st]
Round 5: 1ch, 1dc in same st. *ch3, miss 1 stitch, 1dc in next; rep from * around until the second to last stitch. At this point make a half tr into beginning dc. (Placing a stitch marker on the last stitch of each row from here will help a lot! If you are stuck, have a look at my YouTube video.) [24 chain spaces].
Round 6: *4ch, 1dc in next ch sp; rep from * around until second to last ch sp, 1ch, 1htr into the top of the last st of the previous round (ie, into the top of the htr of previous round).
Round 7: *5ch, 1dc in next ch sp; rep from * around until second to last ch sp, 2ch, 1htr into the top of the last st of the previous round.
Round 8: *6ch, 1dc in next ch sp; rep from * around until second to last ch sp, 3ch, 1htr into the top of the last st of the previous round.
Round 9: *7ch, 1dc in next ch sp; rep from * around until second to last ch sp, 3ch, 1 tr into the top of the last st of the previous round.
Round 10 -25: Repeat Round 9
Round 26: Repeat round 8
Round 27: Repeat round 7
Round 28: 1ch, 1dc in same stitch, 2dc in space, 1dc in dc, *4dc in each ch sp, 1 dc in top of each dc of previous round; rep from * 2dc in last sp, ss to join to 1st dc [120]
Round 29-30: 1ch, 1 dc in same space, dc around, ss to join.
Row 1: 1tr in second chain from the hook, 1 dc in next 6st, turn [7]
Row 2: 1ch, 1tc along the next 7 stitches, turn [7]
Repeat Row 2 until desired handle length or when nearing the end of the yarn (I made my handle approx 46cm/18″).
Turn your bag inside out. Attach the handle to the bag using slip stitches. To attach to the opposite side, count how many stitches are around the top of the bag. I had 120 stitches. You want your handles evenly spaced, I counted 53 stitches along from the right side of my handle and stitch 54 was where I started to attach the other end of the handle. Make sure there are no twists in your handle before you attach it. I used simple slip stitches to attach my handle. Fasten off and sew ends in securely.
Congratulations! You have made yourself a market bag!
Until next time, happy crocheting!!
Hello Everyone!
I am so so sorry that I have not posted for ages! I have been super busy with University, my youngest taking her GCSE’s and life in general! I have designed this little dress which I have named the “Florence Dress” after the gorgeous little princess that I made it for. It consists of a crochet bodice and a fabric skirt. You don’t have to be an amazing dressmaker to fit the skirt to the bodice either. If you don’t have a machine you can easily hand stitch it on. This dress is suitable for advanced beginners/intermediate crocheters and is aged 18-24 months.
For your Florence Dress you will need –
This pattern is written in UK TERMS
Start by chaining 64
Round 1: In the second chain from hook, treble crochet (tc) and continue with a treble crochet (tc) until you reach the end of your chain (63 Stitches). (63 tc)
Round 2: Chain 1 (ch) and turn. 1 tc into each of the next 2 stitches, 2tc into the next stitch. Repeat this until you get to the end of the round. (84tc)
Round 3: ch 1 turn. 1 tc into each of the next 3 stitches, 2tc into the next stitch. Repeat this until you get to the end of the round. (105tc)
Round 4: ch1 turn. 1tc into first stitch, skip 1 stitch, *V stitch into next stitch (tc, ch 2, tc), skip the next stitch* Repeat * to * until end. Tc in final stitch.
Round 5: ch1, 1 tc in first stitch. In v stitch chain space we are going to do a shell. For this you need to do – 2 treble crochet together (2tctog) ch1, 2 tctog, ch1, 2tctog. Next, move on to the tc from the previous round and do 1tc into this stitch. Repeat this until end. 1tc into the last remaining stitch.
Round 6: ch 1 turn. 1tc in first stitch. *Into the chain space of the shell from the previous round, V stitch– (tc, ch1, tc) repeat in next ch1 space of the shell. Next, move on to the tc from the previous round and do 1tc into this stitch*. Repeat * to * until end. 1tc into the last remaining stitch.
Round 7: ch 1 turn, 1 tc in first stitch. In v stitch chain space we are going to do a shell. For this you need to do – 2 treble crochet together (2tctog) ch1, 2 tctog, ch1, 2tctog. Next, move on to the tc from the previous round and do 1tc into this stitch. Repeat this until end. 1tc into the last remaining stitch.
Round 8: ch 1, turn. 1tc in first stitch. *Into the chain space of the shell from the previous round, V stitch– (tc, ch1, tc) repeat in next ch1 space of the shell. Next, move on to the tc from the previous round and do 1tc into this stitch*. Repeat * to * until end. 1tc into the last remaining stitch.
Round 9: ch 1, turn, 1 tc in first stitch. In v stitch chain space we are going to do a shell. For this you need to do – 2 treble crochet together (2tctog) ch1, 2 tctog, ch1, 2tctog. Next, move on to the tc from the previous round and do 1tc into this stitch. Repeat this until end. 1tc into the last remaining stitch.
Now its time to create the arm holes!
Round 10: ch 1, turn. 1 tc into the next 5 stitches, 2tc in the next stitch. Repeat this 4 times. Chain 3, skip 30 stitches (don’t forget to count the chains in your shells as stitches!) In the 31st stitch (which should be an individual tc), 1tc. 1 tc into the next 4 stitches, 2 tc into the next stitch. *1 tc into the next 5 stitches, 2tc in the next stitch*. Repeat * to * another 7 times. Chain 3, skip 30 sts, In the 31st stitch (which should be an individual tc), 1tc. 1 tc into the next 4 stitches, 2 tc into the next. *1 tc into the next 5 stitches, 2tc in the next stitch*. Repeat * to * another 3 times. Slip stitch into the first tc from the round to join. (119 stitches)
Round 11: ch 1, turn. 1 tc into every stitch including the chain stitches of the under arms. Slip stitch into first tc of the round.
Round 13: ch 1, turn. 1 tc into every stitch. Slip stitch into first tc of the round.
Round 14: ch 1, turn. 1 tc into every stitch. Slip stitch into first tc of the round.
Round 14: ch 1, turn. 1 tc into every stitch. Slip stitch into first tc of the round.
Round 15: This round is for the scalloped edge. If you want a straight edge, feel free to omit this round. Chain 3, 4tc into the first stitch, skip 1 stitch, slip stitch into the next stitch, skip one stitch, *5tc into the next stitch, skip 1 stitch, slip stitch into the next stitch*. Repeat *to * until the end. Fasten off your work and sew in the ends.
Congratulations!! You have finished your bodice!!!
For the skirt part of your Florence Dress, measure the width of the bottom of your bodice (just measure one side then multiply it by 2 to make your life easier!). Take this measurement and multiply it by 1.5. If you want a more gathered skirt, multiply the measurement by 2.
To make the gathers, tack or machine sew some basting stitches into the top of the fabric approximately 2cm from the top of your fabric. Make sure the stitches are long and also leave a long tail at the start and end of the row of basting stitches. DO NOT FASTEN THE STITCHES OFF!!! Pull one end of the stitches using the tail and your fabric should begin to gather. Keep pulling the thread until the fabric has gathered to the length that you need. Don’t forget to even out the gathers otherwise your Florence dress will not hang properly. Pin the fabric to the inside of your bodice and either machine or hand sew it in place.
Once your skirt is attached, remove your basting stitches, sew up the back seams (use pinking shears to finish the raw edge)
For the skirt hem, turn the bottom of the skirt up by 1cm and iron. Repeat this process once again. pin the hem in place and either machine or hand sew your hem. I used an embroidery stitch on my machine and made it look fancy but a plain stitch will be fine.
To finish off your dress just attach some buttons to the back opening and you are good to go!!!!!
CONGRATULATIONS! You have made your very own Florence Dress!
I would love to see your makes so feel free to tag me on Instagram (@lexie_loves_stitching) or send me pics via the contact page which you can find in the mail menu.
Happy Making!
Please be kind and do not copy my work as your own. You are free to use this pattern for personal use. If you wish to make this dress to sell, please be kind and credit me. Thank you xxxxxx
Hello Everybody!
Sorry that it has been so long since my last blog post. I have been really busy on placement and also I have some not so good news. A few weeks ago I found a lump on my breast. I made an appointment to see my GP who then sent me to Breast Clinic at hospital. I saw a lovely consultant who assured me that he was sure the lump was 99.9% “nothing” but thought he would do a biopsy to be sure. Anyway, long story short, I am booked in to have surgery on Friday April 13th (what a date!) to have the tumour removed. It was a huge shock BUT I CAN AND WILL get through this. Some days I do feel really angry and ask why me but I know that there are people in this world that are going through things that are a gazillion times worse that what I am going through. I have the most amazing bunch of friends and family and I am in no way a quitter.
In happier news (!), I have been busy with my crochet hook and sewing machine! I completed a beautiful cardigan from the book Geek Chic Crochet by Nicki Trench using Wendy 4 ply in a beautiful Mint Colour. I also made a cute toddler kitty jumper and up cycled a pair of old jeans that were destined for the bin into a little girls pinafore!
Don’t forget that you can also find my crochet tutorials on You Tube. Why not check out my waffle stitch video here
Until next time, take care and happy crocheting!
Love
Hi Everyone!
Welcome to my first sewing post!! I have come up with this super easy skirt that is made from jersey fabric. It is a really simple construction with only 2 seams and an elasticated waist band. I have even drafted a pattern for you but if you can’t print the pattern, have no fear, I will show you how to draft your own from your body measurements in next weeks blog and it can be drawn straight onto your fabric! It really is that simple. So grab a cup of tea and the following items and lets get going!!
For this Super Easy Skirt you will need –
Firstly, print out your pattern. You can find it here – Super Easy Skirt Make sure that when you print your pattern, you check that your printer settings are on Scale 100% otherwise your pattern will print out too small. DO NOT select any special printing options such as centre to fit page. Print your pattern pieces in portrait.
Once you have printed out your pattern, use the grey circle guides on the corners of the sheets to match up the pattern pieces, folding under or cutting off any overlaps, tape or glue them together (I find glue easier. Use a Pritt Stick) and cut out your pieces.
Step 1 – Lay out your fabric right sides together as shown in the picture below with the 2 shorter ends meeting in the middle . Lay your pattern piece onto your fabric ensuring that the side of the pattern that says “Cut on fold” is matching with the fold of the fabric. Pin your pattern piece in place and carefully cut out. Flip your pattern over so that the writing is on the back of the pattern and repeat the cutting out process on the other side of your fabric.
Step 2 – Place your 2 pieces of cut fabric on top of each other, right sides together. Pin the edges to keep them in place for sewing. Use as many pins as you like. There is no limit to the amount of pins you can use!!
Step 3 – Using a zig zag stitch (I have a Janome and its stitch 3 for zig zag), sew up each side seam from top to bottom using a 1.25cm (1/2 inch) seam allowance. As we are using jersey there is no need to finish off the raw edges as jersey will not fray.
Step 4 – Turn up the hem of your skirt by 1.25 cm and press with an iron, then turn up the hem by another 1.25 cm, pin in place and stitch with a straight stitch.
Step 5 – Now for the waist band! Take your elastic and pass it around your waist. Adjust it until it feels comfortable and cut it to the length that you want. Mark the centre of your elastic, then mark a quarter way from each end to make 4 even sections. Attach the two ends of your elastic together using a zig-zag stitch on your machine. Fold your skirt with the side seams together to find the centre point at the front and back or your skirt. On the inside of your skirt, match the join in the elastic with one side seam, match the centre of the elastic with the other side seam and match the quarter marks with the skirt centre front and back. Your elastic may be a little shorter than your skirt fabric but thats ok as it will mean your skirt will fit nice and snug around your waist.
Step 6 – Using a zig zag stitch, sew your elastic to the skirt waist. Stitch close to the edge. Stretch the elastic slightly as you sew to match up your markings on the elastic to the fabric.
Step 7 – Fold sewn in elastic towards the inside of the skirt, pin and stitch using a zig zag stitch. This will then cover the elastic and make your waist band nice and neat.
TA DA!!!! Your skirt is complete!!!!!
I hope you enjoy wearing your new skirt. I would love to see your makes. Feel free to post them on Instagram and use the hashtag #lexiesews. Feel free to get in contact if you are struggling with any of the steps and I will help as much as I can.
Lots of love!!!!
Lexie Loves Stitching 